Crocheting In One Loop Only for Both Loop Patterns

I've had some testers crochet my amigurumi patterns (that are done in both loops) in the back loop only. Some were under the impression that doing one loop only wouldn't alter the overall size or proportions.

But as you can see in these crocheted row swatches, working in one loop only will make the stitches taller than working in both loops. (Stitches look a bit different when working in the round but the size difference is still about the same!)

single crochet through both loops (sc), single crochet through front loop only (sc flo) and single crochet through back loop only (sc blo).

(Photo/Caption Credit: Annette Petavy)

If you want to crochet a both loops pattern in one loop only, you might want to do less rounds/rows to get the same proportions/size as specified in the pattern. But look over the pattern first because some designs use sc blo for certain features.

Check out the Mini Pig Amigurumi made in both loops only:

And haleybun's made in the back loops only:

Do you prefer crocheting in back loops only or both loops (or even the front loops only?!) I've always liked how both loops looked on amigurumi but I've been trying to do more back loops only projects... mostly because I can finish them a little faster since the rounds are taller ;)

Made in June 2013.


Amigurumi Crochet Color Change Tips

Color Change Decreases:

When you get to the decrease rounds of a piece that that has color changes in the middle of the work (e.g. a penguin), you might need to decrease when you get to one stitch before the color change:

You can just move the decrease somewhere else but this may be troublesome if you need to increase evenly or do shaping. You can also decrease the next two stitches using the current color and then switch colors afterwards but that might look weird depending on the design.

I like to change the color in the middle of the decrease. Pick up the first loop with your current color and then pick up the next loop in with your new color:

I do these decreases through both loops:

If you do invisible decreases, it doesn't look as neat because the next stitch's loop will peak through:

Balanced Increase/Decrease Color Changes Rounds:

When doing decrease (or increase) rounds with color changes, you can also do the instructions about halfway through the round and then mirror it for the rest of the stitches to make it more balanced:

*Sc2tog, sc 3* x3, *sc 3, sc2tog* x3.

You can't line up the color changes 100% when working in spirals since the stitches shift over but doing this will help the decrease rounds look better.

Crocheting Over Yarn Ends:

Instead of cutting the yarn and tying knots or carrying over long floats of the colors, just crochet over the ends! It can be more convenient when you're doing a lot of color changes.

Also, if you don't cut the yarn of the old color when crocheting over the ends and your next color change is that color, you'll have it ready to go:

Here the 4th black stitch is being worked and the next color change is beige. The black yarn is dropped and the beige yarn that was crocheted over gets hooked to complete the stitch. 



I hope this helps! I'm also working on a jogless stripes tutorial post.

Made in May 2013.


Baby Hats - Fox & Bunnies

Edit 2/14/2013:
Sleepy Fox Baby Hat Pattern is up.


I've been working on these the past days! I love to make baby hats because they're so quick to make haha! Circumference is around 15" - 16" and the height is 6".

What animal should I make next? :D

Made in April 2012.


Blythe Knitted Lace Dress Pattern

Here's a knit pattern for Blythes! :)

If you make this dress, I'd love to see it! Please add it on Ravelry or post photos in the comments.

  • DK weight yarn (I used NaturallyCaron.com Spa)
  • US #1½ - 2.5 mm double pointed needles
  • 3 tiny flower buttons
  • Snap or velcro 
5.5 sts and 8 rows per 1"(2.5cm) in St st in the round

BO - Bind off
CO - Cast on
K - Knit
K2tog - Knit two stitches together
LN - Left needle
M1 - Make one increase (M1L or M1R)
P - Purl
R# - Round/Row #
Rep - Repeat
RN - Right needle
Sl 1, k2tog, psso - Slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over
St(s) - Stitch(es)
Yo - Yarn over

The back of the bodice will overlap, add a snap or velcro.


CO 30 sts.

R1: Knit

R2: K5, BO 7, k7, BO 7, k4

R3: K5, CO 6, k8, CO 6, k5

R4: Purl

R5: K11, (k1, m1) x3, k2, (m1, k1) x3, k11 - 36 sts

R6: Purl

R7: Knit

R8: Purl

R9: Knit

R10: Purl

R11: Knit

R12: Purl

R13: Knit

R14: Purl

R15: K1, m1, k3, *M1, k2* x14, m1, k3, m1, k1 - 53 sts

R16: Join to work in round (counts as first stitch), knit to end.

Work R1-4 of Lace Pattern for 5 repeats or until desired length. Then work the Edging round.

Lace Pattern:

R1: K1. *Yo, k3, yo, k1* rep from * to end.
R2: Knit
R3: K2, sl 1, k2tog, psso. *K3, sl 1, k2tog, psso* rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
R4: Knit


Last round: K2. Pass first st over. *Pass stitch from RN to LN. Make 2 sts on LN by backwords loop method, BO 4 sts* rep from * to end.

Cut yarn and weave in the ends. Attach a snap or velcro on the back of the bodice. Then sew on the 3 buttons on the front of the bodice. To make the lace stand out more, block the dress and pair it with a petticoat. 

Made in May 2015.

© Adorably Kawaii. Pattern is for personal use only. Please don't redistribute/resell the pattern in any way or form. If you'd like to share my free patterns, please link to my pattern instead of copying and pasting the written pattern. If you post the finished items you make online, my only request is that say something like “Pattern designed by Adorably Kawaii - www.adorablykawaii.com”

Tiny Moon © . Design by FCD.