Supplies
❤ Wool of the Andes Worsted Yarn
❤ C or D & F hook
❤ Black felt for eyes.
❤ Thread
❤ Optional: yarn needle to weave ends in.
❤ Polyfill
❤ 2 pairs of 9mm safety eyes
You will need yellow, orange, white and black yarn.
Crochet the head halfway to experiment with placing the eyes. Make sure you make the mouth and place it before you put the backs on safety eyes! Stuff.
*The yarn I am using is tiny so I am making sure that the foundation area is small and tight before increasing in every stitch. Always remember to switch your hook to a F!
Head
(Use a small hook like C or D)
Magic ring.
1. Crochet 8 single crochets into the ring.
(Switch to a F hook)
2. Inc in each stitch around.
3. "Increase in one stitch, sc in the next" around.
4. Single crochet in each stitch around.
5. "Sc in next 2 sts, inc" around.
6. Sc in each stitch around.
7. "Sc in next 4 sts, dec" around.
8. Sc in each stitch around.
9 "Sc in next 5sts, dec" around.
10. Sc in each stitch around.
11. Sc in each stitch around.
12. "Sc in next 3 sts, dec" around.
13. "Sc in the next 3 sts, dec" around.
14. "Sc in the next 2 sts, dec" around.
Mouth
(Use a small hook like C or D)
Magic ring.
1. Chain 6.
2. Turn. Skip first stitch, sc across. Sl st in corner.
Body
(Use a small hook like C or D)
Magic ring.
1. 8 single crochets into the ring.
(Switch to a F hook)
2. Inc in each stitch around.
3. "Sc in next 5 sts, dec" around.
4-7. Sc in each stitch around.
8. "Sc in next 4 sts, dec" around.
This piece covers the hole:
(C or D hook)
Magic ring.
1. Chain 6
2. Sc once, inc twice, sc once.
Arms
(C or D hook)
Magic ring
1. 4 sc into the ring.
2-4. Sc in every stitch around.
5. "Sc in each stitch, dec once, sc in the rest" around.
Legs
(C or D hook)
Magic ring
1. 4 sc into the ring.
2-3. Sc in every stitch around.
*For the panda hat place it on your finished head! You'll be turning and crocheting back and forth. Use the duck's eyes as a guide as how far you should crochet across.
Panda Hat
(C or D hook)
Magic ring.
1. 6 sc into the ring.
(Switch to a F hook)
1. Inc in each stitch around.
2. "Inc, sc in the next stitch" around.
3. "Inc, sc in the next 2 sts" around.
4-6. Sc in each stitch around.
7. "Sc in the next 6 sts, dec" around.
8. "Sc in the next 6 sts.
9. Sc 6 times across, turn.
10. Chain 1, skip the first stitch and sc across to the *other eye.
11-14. Turn. Chain 1, Sc across.
15. Skip 2 sts, sc across, decrease in the last two sts. Sl St into the side.
Panda Mouth
(C or D hook)
Magic ring.
1. Ch 6
2. Skip the first stich, sc across. Sl st into side
I used black yarn for the nose/mouth :DEars(C or D hook)
Magic ring.
1. Ch 6.
2. Turn. Sc 2 times, inc in next 2 sts, sc 2 times.
3. Turn. Sc 3 times, inc once, sc in the remaining sts.
Cut out a square of black felt and place it over the panda's safety eyes. Cut the square into a circle based on the size. Always cut a little at a time just in case! Fold the circle and cut a tiny bit out to create a hole. Push the panda's safety eyes through and pop the back on to secure the piece. Sew on.
I don't think this is a project for a beginner because of all the pieces and sewing. I don't claim that my patterns are for any skill size so if you have any questions, comment or email!
12.22.2012
Crochet Pattern: Quick Bulky Hat
I suggest crocheting loosely for this and if it's still too small, try a larger hook size!
One skein of Loops & Threads Cozy Wool
Crochet hook M/9mm
Large button
Pattern
Start with a Magic Ring.
1. Double crochet 10 times into the ring.
Insert your stitch marker.
2. Double crochet twice in each stitch.
3. "2 dc in the next stitch, dc once in the next 2 stitches" around.
4. Dc in each stitch around.
5. Dc in each stitch around.
6 "Decrease, dc in the next 3 stitches" around.
7. Dc in each stitch around.
8. Dc in each stitch around.
9. Single crochet in each stitch around.
Sew on a button on a side. Done! :)
Supplies:
❤ worsted yarn
❤ C or D and F hook
❤ optional: yarn needle to weave ends in.
❤ Polyfill
❤ Wool of the Andes worsted weight yarn: Cloud, Red, White & Coal.
(This is tiny yarn! :3)
❤ 9mm safety eyes
-Leave tails so you can weave the parts together!
-Attach the safety eyes where you'll like it to be.
Head C or D hook:
8 sc into ring.
F hook:
Inc around.
*Inc, sc* around
Sc around.
*Sc in next 2sts, inc* around.
Sc around.
(Start stuffing)
*Sc in next 4 sts, dec* around.
Sc around.
*Sc in next 5sts, dec* around.
Sc around
Sc around
*Sc in next 3 sts, dec* around.
*Sc 3x, dec* around
*Sc 2x , dec* around.
*Sc, dec* around. Sc in last st.
Close
Ears
F hook:
Ch 4
Inc around.
Turn. Ch 1, skip a stitch. Sc, inc in middle top once, sc.
Sl st together to form a circle.
Arms
C or D hook:
4 sc into ring.
Sc around.
Sc around.
Sc around.
Sc, dec, sc.
Legs
C or D hook:
4sc into ring.
Sc around.
Sc around.
Whipped creamF hook:
Ch 21. Skip once, sc 10x, sl st across in remaining chains. Swirl it and weave together to hold.
Cherry
C or D hook:
Ch 4 into ring. Leave a tail to attach this to the whipped cream.
If your amigurumi doesn't stand up on its own, there are a few things you can try:
1. Lean the amigurumi against something.
I've used a notebook as the background and had someone hold the top side of the notebook just right so the amigurumi doesn't fall over. I've also leaned the notebook up against books and pillows.
2. You can try putting tape on the bottom of the amigurumi.
The tape may be somewhat visible, but you could edit it out later. I've done this to amigurumis that are a bit top heavy.
3. You can lay the amigurumi down and take the photo from above.
You can also try using a white paper and fold a part of the bottom as a flap for it to stand on. I try this for a more consistent look for shadows in the background.
Whether these work or look good for your amigurumi, depends on the design, size, and the angle of the photo.
Made in May 2012.
1. Lean the amigurumi against something.
I've used a notebook as the background and had someone hold the top side of the notebook just right so the amigurumi doesn't fall over. I've also leaned the notebook up against books and pillows.
2. You can try putting tape on the bottom of the amigurumi.
The tape may be somewhat visible, but you could edit it out later. I've done this to amigurumis that are a bit top heavy.
3. You can lay the amigurumi down and take the photo from above.
Whether these work or look good for your amigurumi, depends on the design, size, and the angle of the photo.
Made in May 2012.
5.10.2012
The Purple Elephant Amigurumi
I get inspired to do so many projects at a time, I often don't finish most of them for years or I just end up completely forget about them and stumble on a bag of stuff later wondering what I was doing!
I recently found this little elephant guy. I think I made him only a few months ago... as well as about 5 other colors I made that I have yet to sew. Oops!
Made in May 2012.
I recently found this little elephant guy. I think I made him only a few months ago... as well as about 5 other colors I made that I have yet to sew. Oops!
Made in May 2012.
5.04.2012
Puff Stitch Video
I received a couple of questions about the stitches in the puff stitch hat. The video is for the puff stitch itself and the photo tutorial is for a decrease puff stitch.
DECREASE PUFF STITCH
The first puff stitch round is easy until you are greeted with holes (spaces) in the next round.
Focus on the loop on top of each puff stitch. There's where you put your puff stitches and increase (two puffs in one!)
If you are having difficulties crocheting through a tight stitch, go into that space instead! (even I cheated)
Yarn over and insert the hook into the front loop of a puff stitch.
Yarn over and pull through the remaining loops.
Puff stitch:
Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull thru 3 loops
*Yarn over, insert back into the stitch, yarn over and pull thru loops.*
(*repeat 3 more times)
Dec puff:
Yarn over, insert hook into front loop of the puff st then insert hook into the next st's front loop, yarn over and pull 3 loops thru.
Yarn over, pull 2 loops thru.
Hope this helps!
DECREASE PUFF STITCH
The first puff stitch round is easy until you are greeted with holes (spaces) in the next round.
Focus on the loop on top of each puff stitch. There's where you put your puff stitches and increase (two puffs in one!)
If you are having difficulties crocheting through a tight stitch, go into that space instead! (even I cheated)
Yarn over and insert the hook into the front loop of a puff stitch.
Yarn over and pull through the remaining loops.
Puff stitch:
Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull thru 3 loops
*Yarn over, insert back into the stitch, yarn over and pull thru loops.*
(*repeat 3 more times)
Dec puff:
Yarn over, insert hook into front loop of the puff st then insert hook into the next st's front loop, yarn over and pull 3 loops thru.
Yarn over, pull 2 loops thru.
Hope this helps!
4.19.2012
Pattern: Puff Stitch Hat
Puff stitch:
Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull thru 3 loops
*Yarn over, insert back into the stitch, yarn over and pull thru loops.*
(*repeat 3 more times)
Dec puff:
Yarn over, insert hook into front loop of the puff st then insert hook into the next st's front loop, yarn over and pull 3 loops thru.
Yarn over, pull 2 loops thru.
Video
If you prefer an image tutorial then here
Supplies:
❤worsted yarn
❤h hook (5.00m)
❤optional: yarn needle to weave ends in.
Pattern:
10 dc into magic ring.
Inc in each stitch around.
Ch 1. Puff st in each stitch. Slip stitch.
*Puff st in next 2 sts, inc* (two puff stitches in one!) around.
*Puff st in next 3 sts, inc puff st in next st* around
*Puff st in next 4 sts, inc puff st in next st* around
*Puff st in next 5 sts, inc puff st in next st* around
*Puff st in next 6 sts, inc puff st in next st* around
*Puff stitch in next 7 sts, inc puff st in next st* around
*Puff stitch in next 8 sts, inc puff st in next st* around
*Puff stitch in next 6 sts, dec puff in next* around
Puff stitch around (in each previous puff stitch)
Puff stitch around
Puff stitch around
Puff stitch around
Sc in each stitch around.
Sc in each stitch around.
Sc in each stitch around.
Sc in each stitch around.
Sc in each stitch around.
Sc in next 8 sts, dec
I love puff stitches!Anyone going to crochet this hat? ;D
Look on Ravelry!
When crocheting in the round, there's a "right" (front) side and a "wrong" (back) side. Which side is the front side is up to you!
For me, the "right" side is usually the side with the v's of the stitches (photo 1) and the wrong side has the upside down v's with the bar on top (photo 2).
When I first learned how to crochet amigurumi, I crocheted in the round counter-clockwise. That method would leave my "right" side (with the v's of the stitches) inside the work and I'd need to turn it inside out when I was done.
But now I crochet from the outside to the inside, moving clockwise around the piece. My "right" side is always facing outwards. I found it to be a lot easier and comfortable for me to do it that way than to keep doing it counter clockwise and flipping the pieces. I also noticed my color changes looked a lot neater on that side.
If you're following a pattern and want your "right" side to be different from the pattern's "right" side, you have to see if the pattern has:
If the pattern is fairly simple and doesn't require crazy shaping, you can have whichever side as the "right" side and it will turn out fine!
Made in April 2012.
For me, the "right" side is usually the side with the v's of the stitches (photo 1) and the wrong side has the upside down v's with the bar on top (photo 2).
When I first learned how to crochet amigurumi, I crocheted in the round counter-clockwise. That method would leave my "right" side (with the v's of the stitches) inside the work and I'd need to turn it inside out when I was done.
But now I crochet from the outside to the inside, moving clockwise around the piece. My "right" side is always facing outwards. I found it to be a lot easier and comfortable for me to do it that way than to keep doing it counter clockwise and flipping the pieces. I also noticed my color changes looked a lot neater on that side.
If you're following a pattern and want your "right" side to be different from the pattern's "right" side, you have to see if the pattern has:- complex color changes (not just simple stripes) since it looks different on "right" and "wrong" sides.
- stitches that are worked in the front loops only or in the back loops only because those may possibly be used in the pattern to add texture or shaping.
- small circumference pieces because it may alter the shape. (The side with the v's of the stitches give your shapes more roundness.)
If the pattern is fairly simple and doesn't require crazy shaping, you can have whichever side as the "right" side and it will turn out fine!
Made in April 2012.
I am turning some of my old pixel art into actual amigurumi! My favorite ones are the whipped cream head bunny and the duck in the panda bear hat. The duck I actually had a keychain stuffed animal of!
♥ foxes (WIP) have been trying to design one.
I'm going to attempt to sew a plushie! A sewing machine is too expensive right now and I'm going to figure out how to put things together first by hand. Rather not go insane with a sewing machine and be discouraged with my noob skills!
4.16.2012
Rainbow Narwhal Amigurumi
I made a narwhal yesterday! :3 It has crocheted eyes and a rainbow-y tusk.
What have you been working on lately?
Made in April 2012.
4.11.2012
Squittle Amigurumi
There is an announcement on our facebook page~ we are having a sale on select items:
20% -40% off!
I LOVE that these babies stay up on their own! Except for those knit squids. Those are the sleepy ones
NEW item by Anda is this nautilus plush! More items will be coming soon and we are combining shipping if you buy from the sale! :)
Please check out these links!! ♥ ♡ ♥
Etsy
Tumblr
Adorably Kawaii
Amigurumi are sculptures made of fabric. Typically, an amigurumi consists of basic shapes of body parts: head, body, arms, legs. And depending on the design, most would make the head in a sphere/circle shape & the body, arms, and legs in a cylinder/oval/tube shape.
There's many shapes you can make for your amigurumi and there's a few different ways to make each shape, in the round (3D) or flat (2D). You need to be familiar with increases and decreases and how to use them together to create the shape you want.
You might also want to look into learning more stitches. There's short stitches, tall stitches, and more advanced/decorative ones. More complex shapes may not be the predictable even increases or decreases but a combination of increases, decreases, small stitches, tall stitches, etc.
You really just need to experiment. To get a good understanding of techniques, you need to practice. You need to know the basics and apply them creatively.
It's essential to write out what you've done if you need more than one piece and want them to match or even plan to make more of this amigurumi.
Here's something I came across a few years ago that might help you get some ideas:
Check out the Sculptural Crochet Primer article on www.supernaturale.com
This is basically my process:
I like to start off with rough sketches of the amigurumi design, then I figure out about how big I want it, and then I break it up into it's basics shapes. I'll have the pattern mostly figured out and I'll usually need to make some adjustments as I crochet along. For the rest of the design like the details such as the face: I'll doodle, write notes, and try a few different things before deciding which I like the best.
Made in April 2012.
There's many shapes you can make for your amigurumi and there's a few different ways to make each shape, in the round (3D) or flat (2D). You need to be familiar with increases and decreases and how to use them together to create the shape you want.
You might also want to look into learning more stitches. There's short stitches, tall stitches, and more advanced/decorative ones. More complex shapes may not be the predictable even increases or decreases but a combination of increases, decreases, small stitches, tall stitches, etc.
You really just need to experiment. To get a good understanding of techniques, you need to practice. You need to know the basics and apply them creatively.
It's essential to write out what you've done if you need more than one piece and want them to match or even plan to make more of this amigurumi.
Here's something I came across a few years ago that might help you get some ideas:
Check out the Sculptural Crochet Primer article on www.supernaturale.com
This is basically my process:
I like to start off with rough sketches of the amigurumi design, then I figure out about how big I want it, and then I break it up into it's basics shapes. I'll have the pattern mostly figured out and I'll usually need to make some adjustments as I crochet along. For the rest of the design like the details such as the face: I'll doodle, write notes, and try a few different things before deciding which I like the best.
Made in April 2012.
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